January 2004 Archives

Whitsunday Wilderness

David himself, architect, builder and host of the Whitsunday Wilderness Lodge, greeted us when the helicopter landed. Not much on formality at this place, I could have saved a couple kilos by leaving home the clothes I'd brought to dress for dinner. Who knew? And who could guess that we would have the whole place to ourselves. I saw the wallabies scurry into the jungle when we landed - already I was getting pulled into the bush.

Low tide for the residents of the 6th cabin from the left.

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The Great Barrier Reef ... a Report from R

aerial Great Barrier Reef

Descending to the Great Barrier Reef from the sky

It is the biggest structure built by living organisms. Humans have nothing to match it ... a kaleidoscope of life, color, revision, danger and timelessness. I cannot begin to explain my emotions at seeing it spring from the ocean, of touching it, of being swept into it ... small and privileged all at once.

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Rainforest collage

Here are some typical animals we would see on our way to dinner.

Bush turkey, stone curlew, stingray, jellyfish, wallaby with joey in pouch, St Andrew's cross spider (not very dangerous, about 2" across), our friend the roach-eating gecko. bigger view

Australia by seaplane, helicopter, kayak, dinghey and sailboat

I thought we traveled by all modes on this trip except submarine, then I remembered we toured in one of those too. Queensland is not the hottest, wettest nor buggiest place I have visited - but the ecotomes of rainforest, mangroves and reefs form one of the completest and best protected systems I have had the privilege to experience.

Koalas aren't that soft, smell like eucalyptus leaves, whine a bit when being transferred to the guest to hold, and grunt and holler when the keepers are changing their eucalyptus branches.

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Devonport and the movies

Auckland's tag line is "City of Sails" and last Saturday every one of them was out on the water. We rode the ferry across the harbor to the commuter town of Devonport - a little Carmel, a little like the ferry commuter cities near Seattle. Better weather and prices, fewer crowds. Nice walking tour, including a stop on Mt. Victoria, from which R snapped this view of downtown.

auckland skyline

Auckland is 8 minutes and a NZ$8.40 round-trip ticket away (discounts for commuters).

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NZ: What things cost

The New Zealand dollar hit a 6.5 year high against the US dollar, and we are getting scorched. It takes US$.679 to buy a Kiwi buck. That's about 10% less than when we arrived in November. Here's some idea of what things cost:

A Green lipped mussel, from D Central in Devonport

Plate of Green-lipped mussels$15.50
2 bedroom apartment in Mission Beach$500,000
Diet Pepsi, 1.75 liters$1.50
Ice, bagged$2.25
Butter, 500g$2.25
Sandwich$6
Hot meat pie$2
Lucky dog pet food roll 2.6kg$5.69
Bus to downtown$1.20
Liter of gas$1.05
Rental car (our Toyota heap) including insurance and taxes$25/day
Cricket ticket, Hamilton$15
Cricket ticket, Eden Park$30
Movie ticket, 1 adult$13
Pop music CD$25
Magazine$7-$9
Tube of mascara$20
Cell phone$150
1 bedroom downtown apt marketed to foreign students$300/wk
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Top 10 reasons why cricket is cool

Pakistan is still touring NZ, playing One Day International matches as well as the 5 day test matches like the one we saw. We went to one in the park 3 blocks from Michael's house. The ODI has slightly different rules that almost guarantee that someone will win at the end of the day. And they get to wear colorful uniforms. The park had the features of American baseball stadiums (loud crowds cheering and jeering, snacks and overpriced souvenirs) and then some, like the Pakistani contingent waving flags, and the mascot that we think was a possum but might have been a bad Kiwi.

The famed Eden Park, home of many a Kiwi heartbreaker, but not this day

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The new painting

It takes 3 hours to drive to Whitianga if one doesn't dawdle for birds. We went there and back on the 2nd, to exchange our sculpture for a painting by Geoff Tune, a piece in the Mt. Eden series. It will be hanging on our wall in SLC in February, with any luck. More great food at the tapas bar, but we were moving too fast in our lawnmower engine Toyota to see any new birds. The difference between the days before Christmas and the high holiday weekend made me glad we went when we did. Note to self-nail down accommodations for the two weeks around Chrismtas and New Years, rest of the year the Kiwis are resting up from their holidays.

painting by Geoff Tune

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Greek New Years cake and Kashmir enchiladas

Michael, Effie and Kristen went to Coromandel themselves to recreate between Christmas and New Years, returning home on New Years Eve. I volunteered to get the traditional New Years cake started- yeast dough that needs several hours of rising, and needs to be ready for midnight. Effie found a recipe for Vasilopita in English. The measurements were a bit confusing, but the Greeks say it passed the audition.

Basilopita with the Kalloniatis gang

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