Ann-alog, a Pixel Remix, where Ann Torrence blogs about photographing for a book on U.S. Highway 89, the greatest road trip route in America. Photography tips, locations, trip reports, and real life.

Christmas memories at the Domain, Auckland New Zealand

I took this picture back in 2003, when this blog was a new thing, and we were in New Zealand. I was shooting film then. 84 rolls in 12 weeks seemed like a lot (it was at $20 per roll by the time I developed it over there). I didn't have access to a scanner until we came back, and this one has languished in the files.

I've always liked it, perhaps more than it merits. Maybe because I can remember how great it was to be out for the Auckland Christmas celebration after R broke his leg and we were choppered out of the backcountry. Or the girl laughing at her dad in the seat as the shutter snapped over and over. I'm biased on this one; maybe it is a good picture. I wanted to use it for the 37Days trading card piece, but I couldn't make the text work with the image. Oh well.

It's 75 degF and raining in Auckland today. That weather didn't seem exactly like Christmas in 2003, even for a Cali girl like me. Nor does it seem like the holidays around the palace this year. There is the construction, and then we are leaving for US Highway 89 stuff. We haven't put up a single holiday ornament nor strand of lights. Simply hasn't been any time. Not even a cookie has been baked. I'm going to eat tamales in Arizona this year and call it good.

On top of the bottom of the world

My Mac battery is fried, my ethernet cable only holds a connection if propped by three coasters at exactly the right position, my 28-105 lens has a smashed filter ring on the front (pried off the glass so I could keep shooting), and my waterproof binocs leak. This has been a hard trip on gear.

R and I agree that the best day and the worst day in NZ were the same day - the day we hiked in the southland that ended with his broken ankle. The scenery haunts my memories. I didn't get enough of this country.

There are people, places and things we miss, and we are heading home. But we will be back, and I hope it's soon.

Paihia cafe scenery

We leave behind a stool just like this one, purchased on my first unsupervised outing driving on the "wrong" side of the road. R needed it to shower when we came back from the South Island. Now it serves many purposes: coffee table on the deck, elevates the laundry basket while we hang the clothes on the line. Effie washed the windows standing on it. She used it, a bucket and a flat netball as a target when we had driving lessons. Effie promises to send me a picture of her drivers license when she gets it at Easter.

90+ kilos of gear

Completely touristy, but we don't have time to do the Bay of Islands any other way. We set off in a drenching, Houstonian rain across the Auckland Bridge, and it dumped on us continuously for the next 3 hours. Confirmed our reservations for the tour to the very tip of the North Island the next day, and took a nap.

Our 4x4 Izusu bus. We took on passengers when the company's other craft, a Mercedes, lost its AC.

David himself, architect, builder and host of the Whitsunday Wilderness Lodge, greeted us when the helicopter landed. Not much on formality at this place, I could have saved a couple kilos by leaving home the clothes I'd brought to dress for dinner. Who knew? And who could guess that we would have the whole place to ourselves. I saw the wallabies scurry into the jungle when we landed - already I was getting pulled into the bush.

Low tide for the residents of the 6th cabin from the left.

Descending to the Great Barrier Reef from the sky

It is the biggest structure built by living organisms. Humans have nothing to match it ... a kaleidoscope of life, color, revision, danger and timelessness. I cannot begin to explain my emotions at seeing it spring from the ocean, of touching it, of being swept into it ... small and privileged all at once.

Bush turkey, stone curlew, stingray, jellyfish, wallaby with joey in pouch, St Andrew's cross spider (not very dangerous, about 2" across), our friend the roach-eating gecko. bigger view

Koalas aren't that soft, smell like eucalyptus leaves, whine a bit when being transferred to the guest to hold, and grunt and holler when the keepers are changing their eucalyptus branches.

Auckland is 8 minutes and a NZ$8.40 round-trip ticket away (discounts for commuters).

The New Zealand dollar hit a 6.5 year high against the US dollar, and we are getting scorched. It takes US$.679 to buy a Kiwi buck. That's about 10% less than when we arrived in November. Here's some idea of what things cost:

A Green lipped mussel, from D Central in Devonport

Pakistan is still touring NZ, playing One Day International matches as well as the 5 day test matches like the one we saw. We went to one in the park 3 blocks from Michael's house. The ODI has slightly different rules that almost guarantee that someone will win at the end of the day. And they get to wear colorful uniforms. The park had the features of American baseball stadiums (loud crowds cheering and jeering, snacks and overpriced souvenirs) and then some, like the Pakistani contingent waving flags, and the mascot that we think was a possum but might have been a bad Kiwi.

The famed Eden Park, home of many a Kiwi heartbreaker, but not this day

It takes 3 hours to drive to Whitianga if one doesn't dawdle for birds. We went there and back on the 2nd, to exchange our sculpture for a painting by Geoff Tune, a piece in the Mt. Eden series. It will be hanging on our wall in SLC in February, with any luck. More great food at the tapas bar, but we were moving too fast in our lawnmower engine Toyota to see any new birds. The difference between the days before Christmas and the high holiday weekend made me glad we went when we did. Note to self-nail down accommodations for the two weeks around Chrismtas and New Years, rest of the year the Kiwis are resting up from their holidays.

Basilopita with the Kalloniatis gang

The eastern edge of the Pacific Ocean, relatively peaceful as we near the jaws of doom

Dragonboats in Auckland's viaduct

Merry Christmas to all our loved ones from Ann and Rin Middle Earth. The NZ Christmas Tree, also known as the pohutukawa, is a myrtle, Metsiderosis excelsa, adapted to volcanic rock and wind-swept coastal regions. It is a delight to behold these December giants arcing over the volcanic coast or on hillsides near Rivendell.

The Cricket : (an official R Report)

We're hooked. Cricket = baseball + brunch + a day at the park + drama + civility. Now when we vacation, all idle moments involve cricket on TV, replays of Australia's 2003 victory, the great Pakistan players of 70s & 80s, on and on. We arrived early in Hamilton for the second day of the 5-day test match between Pakistan and the NZ Black Caps. NZ loves black - they are the Raiders - with a similar record. A silver history and tarnished but hopeful present.

Despite NZ being a western-style social welfare democracy, we daily confront cultural differences that remind us that Americans are not at the center of the universe. Driving rules: When you approach an intersection and you are making a left turn, you must yield to any oncoming traffic making a right turn, which means those crossing your lane, were you to travel straight, have the right of way. I have not mastered this subtlety, but neither have many drivers in Auckland, so everyone is confused at intersections most of the time.

The grocery store has endless entertainment opportunities in every aisle. Lovely venison, whole goat legs, fresh green-lipped mussels, endless varieties of cheese, mango and passion-fruit juice. Cherries are NZ$20/kilo (a lot), blueberries are cheap at NZ$2 per "chip". Cannot buy fresh or frozen cranberries at any price, but they do have whole turkey and cranberry sauce in a can. A popular dessert is pavlova, which is a cake-sized meringue cake topped with whipped cream or custard and fresh fruit. My favorite aisle is the pet food refrigerator case, which I mistook the first time for the frozen ground beef wares. While they sell dried kibbles, these rolls of pet food must be pretty popular.

Winna, Butch, and Basics brand dog rolls, along with Perky Venison in 90 gr packages.

We went to the Auckland Domain, a luscious green, spotless central city park, for the annual Christmas sing-along and celebration with our host & hostess Michael and Effie, Michael's fabulous daughter Kristen, and Brendan & Keeley O'Brien. Big party in the park. The grass was soft and cool. At sunset, an amazing rainbow developed over the harbor. 100,000 people all being friendly. The police reported 'No bad behaviour.'

And then there was the singing. Of course everyone around the world sings that Christmas favorite 'Disco Inferno' (...burn baby burn, burnin', burnin'...) just before Santa arrives in a metal-flake custom sleigh shooting 30 foot sparkler jets out the back, suspended 50 feet in the air by a mechanized cherry-picker. Just like being in a Kurt Vonnegut novel.

The Rainbow at the Auckland Domain

On Friday the 5th, R had his temporary cast removed and went straight into a moon boot. The orthopedics specialist was satisfied with the xrays and wound healing, told him to put weight on it as soon as he can tolerate it. So we are off and running. Michael drove us around from one A&M clinic to another so we could get a new moon boot issued on the insurance scheme. The nurse did not want to sell him a used boot with a surgical wound when he could get one for free.

Michael's daughter arrived with Michael on Thursday, and one thing Kristen loves is boogie boarding. We planned an outing to the Tasman Sea west of Auckland for Sunday that would have something for everyone - a visit to a gannet breeding colony, boogie boarding, a stop at Beesonline (Effie's relations in Greece keep bees) and finally a cafe at a winery.

Adult Australasian Gannets, known as Takapu in Maori and Morus serrator to the biologist.

For those of you who want the short story, R broke his ankle on day 3 of our South Island safari. We were evacuated by helicopter to Invercargill, where he underwent surgery to pin the fibula back together. We flew back to Auckland as soon as they would let him leave, and he is doing great. We both tried to take what was given to us and make the most of it, and the story is linked from here.

Captured during surgery to assess the realignment of R's fibula

Today Invercargill has its Christmas parade at 2 pm. Maybe, just maybe, we can get R settled and I can go take pictures. The tickets arrive in a beautiful red NZ Courier pouch before I check out. I make it to the hospital in time for rounds, see the surgeon finally, but she doesn't speak, not to me and hardly to R. The other doc agrees to discharge him after the physical therapist signs off on R's crutching skills. R has to wear my pants with the side zippers - it's the only clean thing left in the bag that will go over the cast. He gets breakfast, a shower, and now we need NOT to rush, since the new motel can't take us before 1:00.

Invercargill competitors.

We forgot it was Thanksgiving Day yesterday. The docs decide to keep R on bed rest until Saturday. I appreciate the care and caution on his behalf, but I am struggling a little, knowing that in the states he would probably been sent home within hours of the surgery. R didn't get much rest in the hospital with his chatty roommates, so it is probably just as well. I manage to get the physicians to snap to the need to make plans on a longer-range than day-to-day and they agree that tickets for Sunday is a reasonable decision.

An art shot entitled: Three Men's Legs

I spend the early hours of the morning sorting gear back into the duffle bags so that I can manage them in the room and at the airport. I'm hoping that they will release him on Thursday. Watch the morning news, learn that the Swiss have selected Valencia, Spain as the host city for the America's Cup. I miss morning rounds, but R tells me that surgery is scheduled for 9:30 and that they want his foot elevated for 24 hours before he goes on crutches. He certainly won't be released before Friday.

Entering the surgery "theater"

R sleeps some, more than he thinks, but his leg muscles twitch and wake him up. He only complains in his sleep. At 3:00 am I am awake. I lie next to him, thinking about how it could have been worse, trying not to remember the first few seconds when he fell. At 4:00 am, I get up for the toilet. I remember that the Southern Cross should be visible, but there is a light cloud cover and I only see a few bright glowing spots in the clouds that should be stars, probably Alpha Centauri. I fall back asleep until the dawn chorus at 5:30 am, stay quiet until 6:45 when R wakes up. Ruth had instructed the rest of the team to get on the trail by 8 am and they are starting up water for coffee.

Doc relocating the helicopter at Green Lake

Up to another great day. Cannot believe how lucky we have been with the weather - 4 days in a row without rain - hope it holds until evening. I have some trepidation about doing this hike, the off-track part is beyond my experience. The pack feels tall but not heavy. I borrow a walking stick from the company gear pile.

Tussocks, billowing clouds, easy hiking on the ridge line

Ruth wakes us up with coffee at tent-side at 5:00 am. The goal is to get to the kayak service by 7:00 and be on the water before the flightseeing craft arrive like mosquitoes later in the morning.

Clouds hang on the peaks and skim the mountainsides. A rosy sunrise that deserved a box of film, instead I was allowed 2 stops. The road reaches Milford Sound via a 1+ km tunnel, opening into a valley of waterfalls.

Helmsman's view of Milford Sound

We meet Ruth the trip leader at the Queenstown Information Center at 8:00 am. She has stowed the rest of the crowd in a cafe a few doors away. A Dutch couple, Marco and Marleen; 2 German molecular biology students, Sabastian and Marcel, traveling together before they become roommates; and 4 women traveling alone, Sarah, an American, Natalie from Switzerland, and two Enlish gals, Naomi and Dawn. Ruth, a blond Kiwi, looks well-suited to shepherding this pack of kidlets around, and young they are, other than us, as the average age is probably less than 25 if you take us out of the equation.

the trip starts out with some anxiety because, as Ruth calls base to find out where our 11th group member is, she picks up three messages from Michael in Auckland, trying to reach us. R's sister has called to say that their mother is in ICU in Denver. We connect with Diana on the cell phone, and after finding out that Marilyn has stabilized, he decides that we continue the trip that we haven't really started yet, and check in on Day 4 when we get more groceries at Invercargill.

Snowy peaks in all directions, it is just spring up here.

Landing in ZQU is a nerve-wracking affair, dropping into a small bowl surrounded by snow-capped mountains. From the air, the impression is that spring has not yet arrived because the native vegetation is a tussock grass that doesn't really green up. The tree-line is quite low and the margins of the valleys are yellow-gold from gorse planted by the settlers and gone wild. Due to the cloud cover on the flight down, we don't see Mt. Cook or much of the southern alps, but it breaks up just as we reach Queenstown.

Lawnbowling is a quiet sport, no beers on the playing field.

R and the Auckland waterfront at high noon just before lunch at a wharfside cafe. Sky Tower on the horizon can be climbed, bungee-jumped and dined in. The tan building on the left is the Ferry Building, where the harbour cruises are launched and innumerable opportunities abound to relieve the tourists from their money. We'll save that for later - maybe a dinner cruise for New Years? Are there fireworks? We just miss Chinese New Year, a pity because the Asian community is so vibrant here.

Rehabbed Nikon N80
3 lb tripod
65 rolls of film
new Singh-Ray ND filters
diffuser for wildflowers
compact flash (less than 4 oz) to get tramping camping pictures of R
3 sizes of knitting needles for NZ wool
laptop, LaCie drive, scans of slides to Photoshop
2 big Photoshop books to study
dive skin for snorkeling w/o sunburn
backpacks, sleeping bags and the camping coffee pot
rain gear, 2 rain hats
hiking boots
some clothes

The piles of gear are starting to accumulate. The calendar is getting full. We have one month to go before we leave for New Zealand. It is the calm before the storm.